Mine, Mine, Mine!

Resource Guarding in Dogs

Defining the term: Dr. P. McConnell defines “resource guarding” as behavior that discourages another to take, or get close to, an object or valued area in a dog’s possession.  This could be food, toys, space or people.  Some dogs will be very subtle in their warning signs, some will be very obvious but the hardest are dogs who give little or no warning.

Should “territorial aggression” be included in this category of RG?  That is a tough one to answer because many very fearful dogs will act overtly aggression but the dog really isn’t.  However, fearful dogs are at a great risk of biting if pushed. It might not be the job the dog applied for (security) but they got it.  Consequently, the dog may be demonstrating conflicting behaviors.  I equate it to a rookie cop who isn’t sure how to read a situation as well as an experienced officer and may pull out their gun (teeth in the case of a dog) too soon.  They may feel the situation is out of control and dangerous and use their gun (teeth) when it isn’t necessary.  If you ever watched the Andy Griffith Show, Sheriff Taylor who was experienced and confident rarely carried a gun.  Barney Fife carried and flashed his gun quite often.  He may have liked the title but was not confident in his job. The Sheriff didn’t trust his deputy’s judgement and confidence level so Barney had to carry his one bullet in his chest pocket, if at all.  So, I tell owners you want an Andy dog not a Barney dog.

When is resource guarding a problem?  Personally, I worry a great deal more about dog to human rather than dog to dog.  Why?  Dogs speak dog better than most us humans.   Dr. McConnell gave a wonderful video demonstration of this between her old dog and young pup in one of her play videos.  The two dogs were playing very well together, the older dog self-handicapping to play at the pup’s level.  When the adult dog was done playing he took the toy and would growl when the pup tried to re-engage.  The pups got the message immediately and play shut down.

The biggest problem is when you have two dogs valuing the same object with a passion or simply one dog doesn’t want the other dog to possess it and if neither is willing to back down.

This may not happen when the pup is young and not seen as a threat.   But when the pup starts adolescence, the adult dog may no longer share bones, toys and people as it may seen as more of a threat to the adult’s position.

The label “dominant” in the past has been a term loosely used. I believe many dog owners and some trainers feel more comfortable when a label is put on a dog because then they may feel more confident on how to handle or work through the problem.  But it isn’t that easy.  As Patricia McConnell often says, “It depends” is her most common response when asked a question because there are some many variables that have to be considered.

The definition of canine dominance is a dog’s tendency to assert control over resources (food, toys, space, humans).  This is often a label used in the dog world but is being debunked.

 But is that dog dominant or controlling in all situations?  I could have stood up and applauded when John Fischer first used the term vacillating dominance with dogs.  If one dog is likely to greet you at the dog does that mean that dog is more dominant?  I think it does us well to watch and observe what are dog’s values in this world view what is important to each dog.

What are the warning signs between two dogs?   In scent work the handler is watching their dog for what we call “C.O.B.”.  This is simply a change of behavior.  If more dog owners and parents watched for these behaviors, I believe the number of bites and fights would be greatly reduced.

What are some of the warning signs? 

·       a pause in chewing or in breathing

·       hovering over an object

·       growling

·       snapping

·       hard eye contact (not blinking)

·       the dog’s body goes rigid

·       show of teeth

·       lip lifting

·       showing the whites of their eyes

·       appearing hyper aware of the environment

·       lip licking (sign of stress)

·       ears tucked back and flattened their heads

However, these are not the only signs but the more common ones.

What is the cause of RG in dogs?   I am afraid we are still working from educated guesses but soon we will have many more answers to dog behavior as science and the study of dogs progresses.  This is a situation where nature and nurture in cases can come together. 

Could a pup be born as a RG?  Probably but nurture/environment is also a strong component.  The litter of pups may have been big and hence the need to be competitive for a good meal.  If gave up your nipple you may have lost your meal.  Dogs didn’t get to be the second most successful mammal on the face of the earth for no good reason.  Ron Gaunt, one of founders of National Association of Canine Scent Work, said at a seminar, “All dogs are competitive” and for the most part I believe that statement. Again realizing, if the reward isn’t valued the dog may not compete for what it doesn’t want or value.

Prevention of RG in your pup.  An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.  This statement is often attributed to Benjamin Franklin, meaning that it is better and easier to prevent a problem from occurring than to fix it or deal with the consequences after it has happened.  How true!

If you have opportunity to observe the litter of pups before you make a selection or give a puppy aptitude test this may give you some insight.  A good breeder with know which pup appears to be pushy with their food, etc., from watching their behavior as they grow.  I like to do the simple throw a toy or piece of paper out for the pup you are testing or when all the pups are together.  I watch to see if one takes it and runs off with it.  This doesn’t mean this pup will be a resource guarder necessarily or it can’t be resolved but it is information. 

My method is to start the pup out with a good feeling about the cue “drop it” and teach it clearly and repetitively in a positive way.  Basically, using desensitizing and counter conditioning.

Step One:  I start with giving the dog a toy and as the dog is playing with it just walk over and toss a treat to the dog not touching the toy (I do this with the food bowl as well.  I add great morsels but I don’t take it away.)  Do this for about 66 repetitions having all family members doing this.  However, not at one time.  Three short sessions a day is enough for a young dog. There is no magic number with what will work but it is suggested that in 66 days a behavior with become a habit but there may not be any guarding behavior to change at this point.  Trust is key to sharing.  Many toys are usually not major items to guard but that depends on the dog and the toy.  If the dog is showing signs of guarding get another toy of lesser value if there is one.

Step Two:  Now I approach the dog and says “drop it” as I pick up the toy, treat and give back for another week but no less than 66 reps.  You want this dog to be highly conditioned to your approach meaning something good.

Step Three: I give a higher value toy and go back to step one and step two.

Step Four: I give a really good chew or bone.  As an evaluator, I look to see what the dog’s behavior is telling me.  I use the push, hold, or drop method which believe is Susan Garrett’s terms.  If I am seeing any warning signs I drop down to an earlier step and maintain a greater distance from the dog, hold means I will continue to work at the same level for a longer time, if the dog is not showing any signs of guarding behavior, I might push to the next step.  I know we want to just have the dog stop the undesired behavior but you are better to build a strong foundation by taking your time.

Step Five: If I am going to push a-head I have the dog on a leash and if needed tethered to a stationary object so the dog can’t lunge at me.  Am I being overly cautious?  Hell, yes!  My job is not to push the dog into a bite, for my sake, the owner’s sake and the dog’s sake.

(Off topic for a minute but I hired a speaker once to talk to the state organization of animal caregivers about grooming.  She started out saying in her career she has had over 800 stitches from dog bites.  Immediately, I kicked myself for not knowing this person’s level of understanding dogs behavior better.   Stitches should never be a sign of bravery or intelligence.  Usually ,if I have any injury, and mine have been very minor and infrequent, it has been my fault and I certainly am not proud of them.)

 At this point I pick up the highly valued object and reward, if the dog doesn’t demonstrate any aggressive behavior, and give back.  Most of the time I give the item back but you may need to keep it away as something not safe for the dog to have or you don’t want the dog to eat anymore of what he/she has.  But I do the exchange for a treat if I do need to take it away until this dog doesn’t behavior and even then, go to your variable reward system.

Basically, I do the same training for a dog that has started resource guarding but I put more safety nets in play and I work at a greater distance.   I use pans tied by string so I can pull the food away or use an assess-a-hand (Thank you Sue Sternberg!) and I would never recommend doing this without a certified trainer.

What to do if the dog does act aggressive?   I normally just take the leash and put the dog away for a bit.  In a crate, small room or outside for 10 minutes or so and try again later or the next day.  If your dog got rush of adrenaline from the experience you need the dog to decompress for a short time. 

Final Thoughts.

·       I may test my dog periodically with food or chews but rarely do I take away and not give it back. 

·       Train don’t tease!  I know some people will get down on all fours next to their dog and challenge the dog.  Please don’t do this.  Have you ever ordered a meal you were greatly looking forward to and your friend or spouse takes some of it off your plate especially without asking?

·       Give your dog peace and quiet when he/she eats.  No dog wants people shuffling by their food dish.  At a restaurant my brother-in-law would never sit close to the kitchen.  It ruined his meal when people were running back and forth from the kitchen as he was trying to relax.  I believe some dogs might feel this too.  Now I feed all my dogs in their crates because they can eat at their own pace.

·       If your dog gets a hold of something they really should not have, I normally run to the kitchen throw open the refrigerator door and this often brings the dog to me with or without the object.  If they still have the taboo item.  I scatter food around the room or directly in front of them.  This usually makes the dog drop what they have and I prepare better for the next time.

·       Know if you try and grab something out of their mouth there is a good chance you will get bit that is why I want my dog to spit it out.

·       Lastly, do positive training with your dog.  One dog was able to actually learn 2,400 words.  What a vocabulary they shared!  The dog needs to know what your cues mean as this just enhances the communication between you and your dog.  Good training builds trust and a strong relationship!